Spring--real, birds-singing-and-flowers-blooming spring, arrived today. It was one of those blue sky breezy days that made it absolutely impossible to do anything other than get out and dive right into it. So I did what any self-respecting college student would do, and skipped class.
Let me explain that I do not skip class lightly. . . but today was so rare and beautiful that my valuable life-dollars would have been wasted if I spent them in class. An hour and a half of class, or a half-day of climbing craggy limestone cliffs amongst the junipers?
After making that tough decision--toughest I'll make all week--I called the friend who had invited me out, Matt, and told him I was in.
It was an interesting chance to climb with someone different than my usual partner. It's always cool to gain new perspective and experience with someone different, though there is also a certain sense of apprehension. I am still pretty rough around the edges as a climber and there is a lot for me to learn yet before I can manage myself completely safely on the rock.
Speaking of the rock, it was gorgeous--a blank, monolithic slate of limestone that rose up out of nowhere beside a rough single-track road. I was in awe just looking at it. There must be some sort of natural climber in me though--I was immediately unsatisfied with merely gazing at it from the ground. I needed to be on it.
I was soon to get intimately acquainted with that rock. As a "warmup" Matt led a 5.9 route while I belayed. I have caught a lead fall before, but only in practice when I was warned well in advance. With Matt it was lightning fast. I watched him slip and the next thing I knew I was smashed up against the wall, still gripping the rope tightly down by my thigh.I blinked up at him in surprise to see how he was doing, but he was more concerned with me than his own fall.
Despite the hard knock to my elbow and shin, I was sort of glad it happened. Now we both knew that I could catch him when it came down to it, and he got his fall out of the way.
Matt took a second go at the route and managed it without any more falls. I could see how crazy it was at certain points though, how he'd risked quite long falls on nearly nonexistent hand and foot holds. Now that he'd gone up first, I could have chosen to climb the route on top rope and eliminate any risk, but. . .(see last post).
I decided I would lead it, not realizing that it was about to push my boundaries much further than ever before. Only a few feet up, I could hear a loud beating in my head, and it took me a moment to realize it was my heart nervously hammering away (this lasted the entire climb). Every time I have lead climbed in the past, I was painfully aware of how far I was from each bolt, and how long of a fall I would be taking. This time there was no room for such calculation. I had to focus every ounce of my being in just moving my ass to the next available hold, because none of them were trustworthy enough to stand around on and think about the universe.
I had a brief thought at one point--flung far out to the right of the previous bolt--that I was standing on literally nothing. I even shouted down to Matt that I had no clue what was keeping me on the rock at that moment. Two single fingertips and maybe a single toe from each foot had contact with the rock, and I was at a place where slipping would have been a very rough scrape indeed.
(The tiny dot in the center of that photo is Matt at the top of the 5.9)
Actually, I'm pretty sure it was only my incredible fear of death (okay I would not have literally died, but it kinda felt like it) that kept me suspended in the air. Amazing what motivation can do to a person's strength. I could've done a pullup easily at that moment, hell yeah. Panting and dripping with sweat, I reached a nice ledge to stand on below the anchor at the top, and gratefully hugged the nearest outcropping of rock. Safe.
Matt and I continued climbing after that, including one disastrous lead on my part that ended in a free climb back down, which was a bit touch-and-go. But truly, what happened after that for me did not matter, because I'd conquered myself and my fear already. I cheered Matt on as he (top-roped) a 5.10 like a champ, envious but admiring as always. The hours had burned away magically while we weren't looking, and it was time to get back. We packed up and headed back to the vehicle, both having tested our limits for the day .
On the way back, I bought us some victory ice cream, which we ate while watching crazy kayakers enjoy a beautiful evening out on the Clark Fork river. Today--today life is good.